Friday, September 9, 2022

1979 Ford Mustang Ignition Coil Test

 1979 Ford Mustang Ignition Coil Test. Failed to get a spark. 

First I tested power to the coil and it was confirmed there, next I Unhooked and ohm tested the ignition coil for testing. 


Meter set to 20K Ohms Secondary test


1 side I got resistance reading


2nd side, I had no reading. The coil should have had the same resistance on each side. 

Next test set to 200 Ohms 


Should have seen some resistance readings and got for changes.


New coil Testing: Same test here 200 Ohms selected got 1.6 Ohms


Secondary test Pass on new coil on both sides meter set back to 20K Ohms






Sunday, July 11, 2021

Troubleshooting Electrical system

 Recently I had some issues with the 1979 Ford Mustang. Engine would warm up and then it would misfire. 

After contacting Holley I was able to get ohm specs on the MSD coil I had installed. I did end up replacing the coil as it failed secondary test, but after I replaced the coil with a new one I noticed the issue come back. Engine would idle fine then it would misfire after warmed up. Timing was right on, so I decided I was going to pull off the high performance ignition system and put the car back to a factory Duraspark II system and test things out. 

In the last post you saw me make a coil relocation bracket which worked out great. 

After installing the original harness back on and disconnecting the MSD components I installed a brand new Duraspark II Ignition Control Module and new Super Stock 12v Ignition Coil. 

On first attempt to start the engine it failed. Instantly, I could tell there was no fire. First step was to check voltage at the coil. To my surprise I only had about 6 volts where I should have 12. 

Ah hah, I found another problem in this old car. At this point I decided I am going to disconnect the harness for the Ignition Control Module, Distributor, and Ignition Coil. 

Next test I wanted to perform was testing the male side of the connector that is connected to the harness going into the car. 

I made a diagram of the plug  on my old trusty Army notepad and traced back the ignition power wire to find the correct pin to test. I turned the ignition key to the run position and verified that I had just over 12 volts, which I did. This was a relief because it meant the harness leading into the car was completely fine and the source of the problem was in the engine harness. I sourced myself some terminals. That took a bit to figure out what exactly they were. Dorman makes an assortment pack, but for this plug they are called Ford Wedge Lock terminals. I found out that Summit Racing also has these terminals. No one Sells a pigtail version of the this plug, so if issues are bad you need to rebuild it. 








This is a handy Lisle terminal tool makes life easy safely taking apart this plug. Take care when doing this because these are very hard to come by nowadays. I've tried finding in salvage yards no many of the early foxbody mustang exist anymore.

Pop the red block in the center before attempting to release any wire terminals. 
The red block is a lock. REMEMBER TO TAKE CARE WHEN RELEASING TERMINALS!!!



Next step I tried was to clean corrosion off of the terminal and try another power test.





Even with it polished up the test still failed. I was still getting just a little over 6 volts, so I made the decision to replace the hole Ignition Coil hot wire giving us issues. 


This crimper replicates the factory crimp perfectly. 


Crimped new terminal to new wire. I would like not I decided to step it a bit on quality of wire. I sourced some marine grade tin coated copper wire which holds up better to the elements and harsh conditions. 



With the new wire connected to the correct pin. I decided to replicate test performed earlier. 




We have a winner. Over 12 volts coming down the new ignition coil hot wire (Positive Wire).